Alternating Peyote Cellini Spiral Bead Weaving Pattern

How to Bead Weave an Alternating Cellini Spiral Bracelet

Happy Holidays! First off, I want to thank every one of you for your support with pattern purchases and also  following, sharing, and visiting my blog, Facebook page and stores in 2012– You are TRULY appreciated!

This may be a little late to make as a gift but thought it would be a great bead weaving pattern for the holidays. I beaded this chunky blue  and silver bracelet for my daughter’s teacher earlier this year. Originally, a good friend of mine asked me how to start a Cellini spiral and I had to start one in order to tell her how to do it but then just kept going. I had seen small sections of the zig-zagging (or mitered?) Cellini done in finished bead work but wanted to figure out how to make it into a full bracelet. My instructions include the beads I used and the way I did it but I’m sure there are other/better ways of doing this. It is very simple, especially if you already know how to bead a Cellini spiral; you just switch directions  to create the “V”s. I am including step-by-step instructions for those of you who don’t already know how to bead the spiral or just beginning with bead weaving.

Here are some other sites I found this Cellini at:

Bead and Button Forum

Cindy Cohn’s Twist retwist

Carl’s Beading Table Blog

Here’s one for the flat alternating Cellini spiral

http://www.biser.info/node/320422

***Free download of the PDF version of this tutorial is now available in my Craftsy store (you will need to open a free account.)

Supplies-Please note these are approximate on colors. I have listed in parenthesis how I will refer to the beads in the tutorial.

1. 3 grams Miyuki Round size 15/0  Silver lined Capri Blue #15-25 ( blue 15/0)
2. 3 grams Miyuki Round size 15/0 Crystal Transparent AB #15-250(crystal 15/0)
3. 4 to 5 grams  Miyuki Round size 11/0 Opaque White #11-402 (white 11/0 )
4. 4 to 5  grams Miyuki Round size 11/0 Silver lined Frosted Sapphire #11-19F (blue 11/0)
5. 10 grams  Miyuki Round size 8/0  Silver Lined Matte Cobalt Blue # 8-20F ( blue 8/0)
6. 1 gram Miyuki Round size 11/0 Silver lined Matte Cobalt Blue #11-20F  or similar to blue 8/0 (dark blue 11/0)
7. 5 to 6 grams Miyuki Round Duracoat Galvanized Silver #8-4201 (used in the finished bracelet above and recommend these if you are just starting out) OR 3MM AB clear  Czech  Fire Polish (used for the instructions in this tutorial–I ran out of silver 8/0s but the fire polish worked too.) ( silver 8/0)
8. 1 gram Miyuki Round size 11/0 Duracoat Galvanized Silver #11-4201  OR Silver lined Crystal #11-1 if using clear fire polish. Again, these need to be similar to the silver 8/0s  (silver 11/0)
9. Clasp
10. Nymo D dark blue thread and wax or FireLine, size 12 beading needle, scissors

*There are a lot of instructions and I may have over-complicated things by doing this step by step. Directions below simply put, you bead 14 rounds of regular peyote spiral for the Cellini. On the last bead of the 15th round, you switch directions.

1. Thread your needle. Pick up beads in this order: 2 crystal 15/0s, 2 blue 15/0s, 2 white 11/0s, 2 blue 11/0s, 2 blue 8/0s, 2 silver 8/0s OR 3MM fire polish, 2 blue 8/0s, 2 blue 11/0s, 2 white 11/0s and 2 blue 15/0s for a total of 20 beads. Leaving a 12-14 inch tail, sew through all beads to make a loop, starting through the first two crystal 15/0s. This tail will be used to decrease the end.

2. Continue to sew through all beads; sew back through the 2 crystal 15/0s. Pull your thread snug. This ring counts as Round 1 AND Round 2. I have marked the working crystal 15/0s with a red dot so they are easier to see.

Round 3 This round is the most difficult just because it doesn’t sit pretty at first. Once you have a couple of more rounds complete, it will be easier. If you already know how to do a Cellini Spiral, just work an additional 12 rounds and skip to Step 22.
3. Working clockwise, pick up 1 crystal 15/0; skip over the very next blue 15/0 sitting next to where your thread is coming out from and sew through the second blue 15/0 in the ring. The crystal 15/0 should be sitting on top of the blue 15/0 you skipped over. Pull your thread.Note: You will always be picking up the bead your thread is coming out from for the next stitch.Example: Since we started out from a crystal 15/0 in this step, we needed to pick up a crystal 15/0.

4. Pick up 1 blue 15/0; skip over the very next white 11/0 and sew through the second white 11/0 in the ring. Pull your thread. The blue 15/0 you just added should be sitting on the white 11/0 you skipped over.

5. Pick up 1 white 11/0; skip over the very next blue 11/0 and sew through the second  blue 11/0 in the ring. Pull your thread. The white 11/0 you just added should be sitting on the blue 11/0 you skipped over.

6. Pick up 1 blue 11/0; skip over the very next blue 8/0 and sew through the second blue 8/0 in the ring. Pull your thread.

7. Pick up 1 blue 8/0; skip over the very next silver 8/0 or 3MM fire polish(which ever you chose–I will refer to these 3MM fire polish as silver 8/0 for the rest of the tutorial); sew through the second silver 8/0 in the ring. Pull your thread.

8. Pick up 1 silver 8/0; skip over the next blue 8/0 and sew through the second blue 8/0. Pull your thread. For simplicity, just remember that you are always picking up the same bead that  your thread is coming out from.

9. Pick up 1 blue 8/0; skip over the next blue 11/0 and sew through the second blue 11/0. Pull your thread.

10. Pick up 1 blue 11/0; skip the next white 11/0 and sew through the second white 11/o. Pull your thread.

11. Pick up 1 white 11/0; skip over the next blue 15/0 and sew through the second blue 15/0. Pull your thread.

12. Pick up 1 blue 15/0; skip over the very next crystal 15/0 and sew through the last crystal 15/0 of the ring AND the very first crystal 15/0 you added in Step 3 to “step up”  to start the next round.  This will complete Round 3.

Round 4-14  These next 11 rounds are similar Steps 3-12 but a little easier since the beads you are sewing through are sticking out. You are just going to fill in the gaps or “stitch the ditch”. Make sure to keep your thread snug through the fourth and fifth rounds.

13. Pick up 1 crystal 15/0; sew through the next  blue 15/0 sticking out. The crystal 15/0 you just added should be sitting on top of the first blue 15/0 you skipped over in this step. Pull your thread.

14. Pick up1 blue 15/0; sew through the  white 11/0 sticking out. This added blue 15/0 should be sitting on top of the the first white 11/0 you skipped over in this step. Pull your thread.

15. Pick up 1 white 11/0; sew through the next  blue 11/0 sticking out ( I will refer to these as the “next bead” for the rest of the tutorial. You will always skip over the very next bead and sew through the bead sticking out unless otherwise noted)  and pull your thread.

16. Pick up one blue 11/0; sew through the next  blue 8/0 and pull your thread.

17. Pick up one blue 8/0; sew through the next silver 8/0 and pull your thread.

18. Pick up one silver 8/0; sew through the next blue 8/0 and pull your thread.

19. Pick up one blue 8/0; sew through the next  blue 11/0 and pull your thread.

20. Pick up one blue 11/0; sew through the next white 11/0 and  pull your thread.

21. Pick up one white 11/0; sew through the next blue 15/0 and pull your thread.

22. Pick up one blue 15/0; sew through the  last crystal 15/0 and the first crystal 15/0 you added in this round in Step 13 to “step up” for your next round. Pull your thread. This round is complete. Repeat Steps 13- 22 for the next 10 rounds. The easiest way I kept track was by counting the silver 8/0 beads.  Once you have a total of 14 silver 8/0 beads INCLUDING the first 2 in the initial ring, finish the 14th round, step up and stop.

23. Round 15/Round 1This round will also be counted as Round 1 for the next 14 rounds.   Work Round 15 in a peyote spiral stitch as you did in the previous rounds, but as you add your last blue 15 of this round DO NOT step up. Instead, sew through the last crystal 15/0 only of this round –don’t go through the first crystal 15/0 added in this round .  This is where we are switching directions! Pull and keep your thread snug.

24. Round 2  Pick up 1 crystal 15/0; sew back through the blue 15/0 you just added in Step 23.  Pull your thread. This added 15/0 should be sitting on top of the crystal 15/0 that your thread is coming out from. I think of this a as doing a half ladder stitch over the crystal 15/0 your thread is coming out from to switch directions.I showed this step at 2 different angles. This is starting the second half of the “V”.

25. You will work  the Peyote/ Cellini  spiral as you did previously but I will still go over this round. Pick up 1 blue 15/0; sew through the next white 11/0 and pull your thread. Be sure to keep your thread snug through out the rounds.

26. Pick up 1 white 11/0; sew through the next blue 11/0 and pull your thread.

27. Pick up 1 blue 11/0; sew through the next blue 8/0. Be sure to pull thread snug after each stitch.

28. Pick up 1 blue 8/0; sew through the next silver 8/0.

29. Pick up 1 silver 8/0; sew through the next blue 8/0.

30. Pick up 1 blue 8/0; sew through the next blue 11/0.

31. Pick up 1 blue 11/0; sew through the next white 11/0.

32. Pick up 1 white 11/0; sew through the next blue 15/0.

33. Pick up 1 blue 15/0; sew through the next 2 crystal 15/0s to step up for the next round. Photos below show top and side view of this round completed. Repeat Steps 24- 33 for the next 12 rounds (Rounds 3-14). Be sure to count 14 silver 8/0s, including the point/ shared 8/0 on the the 15th round from the first half of the “V”. Below shows 2 silver 8/0s for this half.

34. (This is a repeat of Step 23)  Round 15/Round 1This round will also be counted as Round 1 for the next 14 rounds and the turning point.   Work Round 15 as you did in the previous rounds, but as you add your last blue 15 of this round DO NOT step up. Instead, sew through the last crystal 15/0 only of this round –don’t go through the first crystal 15/0 added in this round .  This is where we are switching directions! Pull and keep your thread snug.

35.  Round 2 Pick up 1 crystal 15/0; sew through the blue 15/0 you added in Step 34. Pull your thread.

36.   Continue to repeat Steps 24-34 to desired length of bracelet minus 1/2 inch for clasp, switching directions after each 15^th round is complete.  Be sure to count 15 silver 8/0 beads for each set of the alternating pattern, including the shared silver 8/0 at the point of each V for symmetry.

This is with 2 alternating sets worked. Round 15 is the point and shared last and first round of each side of the V.

If you have a different way of ending your spiral, you may skip these next steps to add your clasp.

Decreasing the Ends We are still counting the initial ring you made in Step 2 as Rounds 1 and 2.
I have included photos and put in parenthesis at the beginning of the next steps where I have made changes in bead size and decreases;  the remaining stitches should be beaded in regular peyote spiral stitch unless otherwise noted. ***Indicate where the changes are. You will want to keep your thread snug through the decreases.

37. Round 3(Change of  bead size)Thread your needle with your tail thread you left in Step 1. Pick up 1 crystal 15/0; sew through the next  blue 15/0 and pull your thread.

38. Pick up 1 blue 15/0; sew through the next white 11/0 and pull your thread.

39. Pick up 1 white 11/0; sew through the next  blue 11/0 and pull your thread.

40. Pick up 1 blue 11/0; sew through the next  blue 8/0 and pull your thread.

41. Pick up 1 blue 8/0; sew through the next silver 8/0 and pull your thread.

42.***Pick up 1 silver 11/0(this is replacing the silver 8/0) ; sew through the next blue 8/0 and pull your thread.

43. Finish this round as usual (10 stitches total); step up through the 2 crystal 15/0s to start Round 4.

44. Round 4 (Change of bead size) Peyote spiral stitch the first 4 stitches as usual.

45. On the fifth stitch,  **pick up 1 dark blue 11/0 (one that is similar in color to the blue 8/0 you are replacing–I used a darker color but it would look better with a matching bead); sew through the next silver 11/0 and pull your thread snug.

46. Pick up 1 silver 11/0; sew through the next  blue 8/0 and pull your thread.

47. **Pick up 1 dark blue 11/0; sew through the next  blue 11/0 and pull your thread.

48. Finish this round as usual (10 stitches total); step up through the 2 crystal 15/0s to start Round 5.

49. Round 5 (2 Decreases) Peyote spiral stitch the  first 2 stitches as usual.

50.  On the third stitch,  pick up 1 white 11/0; ** sew through both blue and dark blue 11/0s. Pull your thread.

51.  **Pick up 1 blue 11/0; sew through the next silver 11/0 and pull your thread.

52. Pick up 1 silver 11/0; **sew through both dark blue and blue 11/0s. Pull your thread.

53. Finish this round as usual (8 stitches total). Step up through the 2 crystal 15/0s to start Round 6.

54. Round 6 (No change) Peyote spiral stitch the first 2 stitches as usual.

55. Pick up 1 white 11/0; sew through the next blue 11/0 and pull your thread.

56. Pick up 1 blue 11/0; sew through the next silver 11/0 and pull your thread.

57. Pick up 1 silver 11/0; sew through the next  blue 11/0 and pull your thread.

58. Pick up 1 blue 11/0; sew through the next white 11/0. Finish this round as usual; step up through the 2 crystal 15/0s to start your next round. (8 stitches total)

59. Round 7 (Change of bead size) Peyote spiral stitch the first 2 stitches as usual.

60. On the third stitch, **pick up 1 crystal 15/0; sew through the next blue 11/0 and pull your thread.

61. **Pick up 1 blue 15/0; sew through the next silver 11/0 and pull your thread.

62.  **Pick up 1 crystal 15/0; sew through the next blue 11/0 and pull your thread.

63.  *Pick up 1 blue 15/0; sew through the next white 11/0 and pull your thread.

64.  **Pick up 1 crystal 15/0; sew through the next blue 15/0 and pull your thread.

65. Pick up 1 blue 15/0; step up through the 2 crystal 15/0s to start your next round (8 stitches total).

66.  Round 8 (4 Decreases and last round of decreases) Sew through the next blue 15/0–I didn’t count this as a decrease.

67. **Pick up 1 blue 15/0; sew through the next crystal 15/0 AND  blue 15/0. Pull thread snug.

68.  **Pick up 1 blue 15/0; sew through the next crystal 15/0 AND  blue 15/0. Pull thread snug.

69.  **Pick up 1 blue 15/0; sew through the next crystal 15/0 AND  blue 15/0. Pull thread snug.

70.  **Pick up 1 blue 15/0; sew through the last crystal 15/0 AND  blue 15/0 (4 stitches total). Pull thread snug.

71.  Round 9 Pick up 1 blue 15/0; sew through the next blue 15/0. We are working with the blue 15/0 added in  Round 8. Pull your thread.

72. Pick up 1 blue 15/0; sew through the next blue 15/0 and pull your thread.

73.  Pick up 1 blue 15/0; sew through the next blue 15/0 and pull your thread.

74. Pick up 1 blue 15/0; sew through the last blue 15/0 and pull your thread. Pass back through all blue 15/0s added in this round.

75. Pick up 2 or 3 blue 15/0s, one clasp end and 2 or 3 more blue 15/0s. Sew through the blue 15/0 directly opposite of the one you started out from in this step.

76. Sew back through the blue 15/0s and clasp added in Step 75. Sew back through all beads again to strengthen. Sew through your piece to tie off  2-3 half hitch knots and end your thread.

Repeat Steps 37-76 for other end of your bracelet and you are finished!

Please contact me or leave a comment if you have any questions, need help with the directions or see any errors in this pattern. Hope you enjoyed it!

Net and Right Angle Weave Tila Bracelet Tutorial

Now available for instant download at Craftsy.com. You will need to set up an account but is VERY simple!

****10/19/2012 Steps 9-12 have been corrected from 4MM to 3MM. I apologize for any confusion!

I’ve been working a lot with Tila beads recently and thought it was time to do a free Tila bracelet tutorial!

This pattern is similar in some ways to my Tila Crystal Box Bracelet and uses the same clasp but it’s not as dimensional and is easier to bead up.

Check out some of these other great Tila Patterns:

Deb Roberti’s Skinny SuperDuo Band

She also has an entire page of Tila only patterns which can be found on her site at AroundTheBeadingTable.com

About.com’ s Fancy Tila Bead Bracelet

Also, visit Chris Franchetti Michaels’  beadjewelry.net  for some of her Tila Patterns.

Tila Temptation Bracelet on favecraftsblog.com

Had to include this one too that I just found on Pinterest…Nancy Gou’s Board: Beading With Tilas.

*September 2-Another really nice one I found today from Smadar’s Treasure- Ribbead Pattern 

So, off subject for a moment. I have switched to the dark side….and have begun using Nymo size D beading thread. It was a little challenging at first switching from Fire Line, but using the right color thread for some projects will give a nice effect between some of those small spaces you see in the bead work. Tons cheaper too! I was hesitant at first; I’ve used nylon thread before (think it was the cheap stuff though) and was sorely disappointed. The manager at our local bead store told me to at least give it a shot and ended up giving me a free spool. So far it’s been nice, although I found that I can’t pull as much thread at the same time. It’s more difficult to re-thread but the more I use it, the easier it’s getting.

Enough rambling for now, on to the tutorial!

What you will need to make a 7 inch bracelet end to end, 6 and 3/4″ wearable:

51 Tila beads, Matte Metallic Copper #TL-2005

22 4MM Czech fire polished beads, Ruby

33 3MM Czech fire polished beads, Garnet

5 grams size 11/0 Miyuki seed beads, Metallic Bronze Copper #11-457a

5 grams size 15/0 Miyuki seed beads, Metallic Bronze Copper #15-457c

*Please note these are the beads I happened to have on hand but am not sure how available the finish/colors are. You can achieve a more metallic look with regular #457 Miyuki seed beads and #457 Tila beads.

Clasp-I have instructions to make your own but you can use a regular clasp.

Thread, scissors, size 12 beading needle. I used Nymo size D Red but Fire Line is great too.

Making A Layered Square

1. Pull about 5 feet of thread and thread your needle. Pick up 4 tila beads and add them to your thread. Leave a 2 and 1/2  foot tail for the clasp. Pass through the first tila strung, coming in the opposite side of where your thread is coming out from to create a loop/square with the tilas.

2. Round 1 Pick up one copper 11/0; working in a counter-clockwise direction, pass through the next tila.

3. Repeat Step 2 to continue Round 1 by adding one copper 11/0 in each corner. Pass through the last tila,  then though the first copper 11/0 added in Step 2.

4. Round 2 Pick up 3 copper 11/0 beads; pass back through the same copper 11/0 , coming in from the opposite side of where your thread is coming out from. This will form a right angle weave loop in this corner.

5. Pass through all beads in this right angle loop to strengthen, then through the tila and the copper 11/0 on the next corner.

6. Repeat Step 4 and 5 for the next corner.

7. Continue to repeat Steps 4 and 5 for the next corner.

8. Repeat Step 4 for the last corner. Pass back through all beads in the right angle loop. Weave through the loop to the top end copper 11/0 of the corner.

9. Round 3 Pick up a 3MM bead; working clockwise, pass through the next corner copper 11/0.

10.  Pick up another 3MM bead;  pass through the next corner copper 11/0.

11. Repeat Step 9 to continue Round 3 for the last 2 corners so that you have a 3MM bead on each tila.

12. Pass back through all 3MM beads and corner 11/0s from Round 3. Keep your thread tight to strengthen this top loop.

13. Weave through any corner down to the bottom copper 11/0 that is connected between the tilas from Steps 2 and 3.

14. Pass through the tila. This shows how it would look from top and bottom.

15. Pass through to the outer hole of the tila you are working in.

16. Round 4 Pick up 2 copper 15/0s, 1 copper 11/o and 2 copper 15/0s. Working clockwise, bring your needle through the outer hole of the next tila.

17. Repeat Step 16 for each corner to continue Round 4. On the last corner, pass through the tila and the first 2 copper 15/0s added in Step 16.

18. Round 5  Start this round by skipping over the very next copper 11/0; working clockwise, pass through the next 2 copper 15/0s and the next tila. This should allow the copper 11/0 you skipped over to pucker out. If needed, use your needle to pull the copper 11/0 out.

19. Pick up 1 tila; bring your needle back through the previous tila, coming in from the opposite side that your thread is coming out from.  Pass through the just added tila.

20.  Pass through the previous tila; continue to work clockwise and pass through the next 2 copper 15/0 beads.

21. Skip over the copper 11/0 and pass through the next 2 copper 15/0 beads and the next tila. Pick out the corner copper 11/0 if needed.

22.  Pick up 1 tila and pass through the previous tila, coming in through the opposite side of where your thread is coming out from. Pass back through both tilas to strengthen.

23. Pass through the previous tila and through the next 2 copper 15/0s beads.

24. Continue Round 5 by repeating  Steps 18 through 21 for all 4 sides, adding a  tila bead to each of the bottom layer tila beads.

25. I have turned my piece to where the left side is now the bottom.  Pass through the last tila added in Step 24.

26. Round 6  Flip your just added tilas up(inward). Pick up beads in this order: 1 copper 11/0, 1 copper 15/0, a 4MM bead, 1 copper 15/0 and 1 copper 11/0. Working in a counter-clockwise direction, pass through the next tila, using the bottom hole of the top layer tila bead.

27. Repeat Step 26 to continue Round 6 for each corner, using the same bottom hole of the top layer tilas. Pull thread snug.

28. Round 7 Keep thread snug. Continue to work counter-clockwise and string 5 copper 15/0 beads; pass through the next tila, using the same bottom holes as Steps 26 and 27. Some tilas may be a little tricky to get to as you may have to back out of a couple of beads since your needle may want to go through the seed beads and fire polish also.

29. Repeat Step 28 to continue Round 7 for all 4 corners. Keep thread snug.

30. Weave up through the last tila up to the top hole.

31. Round 8 Pick up 3 copper 15/0s; working clockwise, pass through the next tila, using the top hole.

32. Repeat Step 31 to continue Round 8 for all 4 inner corners. Keep thread snug as you work. Pass back through ALL tilas and 15/0s added in Round 8 to strengthen this inner loop, keeping thread snug.

Making the connection

33. Weave down to the bottom hole of the tila.

34. Flip your piece over to where the bottom side is facing up.

35. Pick up 1 copper 11/0, a 3MM bead and 1 copper 11/0. Pass through the same bottom tila, coming in on the opposite side your thread is coming from to form a loop.

36. Pass through all beads added in Step 35 and the tila to strengthen. Weave through to the 3MM bead.

37. Flip your piece over to where the top side is up.

38. Pick up 1 copper 11/0, 1 tila and 1 copper 11/0. Pass through the 3MM bead, going through the opposite side of where your thread is coming out from.

39. Pass through the 3MM, copper 11/0s and tila again to strengthen. Weave to the first tila hole closest to the 3MM bead(hole we have been working through already).

40. Pick up 3 copper 15/0 beads; pass through the end hole of the tila. This should allow the copper 15/0 beads to sit on one side of the tila.

41.Pick up 3 copper 15/0s again and pass through the previous hole in the tila AND and the first strung copper 15/0 on the other side.

42. Skip over the center(second strung) copper 15/0; pass through the last copper 15/0, the tila AND the first strung copper 15/0 added  in Step 41 on the other side of the tila. This will allow the side embellishment to stick out a little. Use your needle to pick out the center copper 15/0 if needed.

43. Skip over the center copper 15/0; pass through the first strung copper 15/0 on this side, through the tila and the copper 15/0 on the other side of the tila. Use your needle to pick out the center copper 15/0 if needed.

44. Skip the center copper 15/0 on this side; pass through the last copper 15/0 and the tila ONLY.

45. Pick up 1 copper 11/0, a 3MM and 1 copper 11/0; pass through the tila going in on the opposite side your thread is coming out from. Pass through all beads added in this step and the tila to strengthen.

46. Weave through to the 3MM bead.

47. Pick up 1 copper 11/0, 1 tila and 1 copper 11/0; pass through the 3MM bead. Pass through all beads added in this step and the 3MM to strengthen.

48. Weave through to the end hole of the tila.

Starting Your Next Layered Square

49. Pick up 3 tilas; pass through the previous tila, coming in on the opposite side of where your thread is coming out from.

50. Repeat Steps 2 through 32 from Making A Layered Square to create your next layered square. Once your next square is complete, follow Making a Connection to connect to your next layered square. For a 7  inch bracelet end to end, which is 6 and 3/4 wearable, follow directions to make 5 squares. Each square with one connection is 1 inch. Add or remove squares, or adjust the clasp directions to fit your needs. Repeat these steps until your bracelet is about 1 inch less than the desired length so you can add your clasp.

Making a Tila Toggle Bar and Ring Clasp

Toggle Bar

51.  Take the 2 and 1/2 foot tail thread you left from Step 1, thread your needle and repeat Steps 33-47 from Making a Connection. Repeat Steps 40-44 to add your side embellishments to the end tila bead.

52. Pick up 1 copper 11/0, a 4MM bead and 1 copper 11/0; pass through the tila, coming in on the opposite side of where your thread is coming out from. Pass through all of these beads including the tila 3 times to strengthen.

53. Weave through the 4MM bead.

54. Pick up 1 copper 11/0, a tila and 1 copper 11/0. Pass through all beads including the 4MM bead 2 times to strengthen.

55. Weave through the tila.

56. Pick up 1 tila and bring it next to the previous tila.

57. Pass through the end holes of both tilas. Pull your thread.

58. Pick up another tila and bring it next to the tila your thread is coming out from.

59. Pass through all 3 tilas, going through the first holes near the 4MM bead, then back through the end holes.

60. Pick up 3 copper 11/0 beads; pass through the tila bar going through the first holes.

61. Pick up another 3 copper 11/0 beads; pass through the end holes of the tila bar and through the first strung copper 11/0 from Step 60.

62. Skip over the center copper 11/0 added in Step 60; pass through the end copper 11/0 on this side, through the tila bar and the  copper 11/0 on the opposite side of the bar. Repeat this step for the other side of the bar. Weave through the bar and your bracelet, tying 2 to 3 half hitch knots to secure your thread and cut your thread.

Beaded Ring

63. You will need at least a 2 1/2 to 3 foot thread for this part. If you don’t have a long enough tail thread, end it and tie in a new piece. Repeat steps 51-53 for this end. Pick up about 23 copper 11/0 beads;  pass through the 4MM bead to create a loop.

64. Pass through all 11/0s and the 4MM bead again to strengthen this loop. Test your toggle end to make sure it goes through the ring.

65. Weave through the 4MM bead, then pass through the first 2 copper 11/0 beads in the ring.

66. Pick up 3 copper 15/0 beads and bring your needle through the 2nd and 3rd bead in the ring. This will form a small loop over the second copper 11/0 in the ring.

67. Pick up 2 copper 11/0s; pass through the last strung 15/0 from the previous loop and through the 3rd and 4th copper 11/0 beads in the ring. This will create a small beaded loop over the third copper 11/0 in the ring and you will have shared a 15/0 from the previous embellishment loop.

68. Pick up 2 more copper 15/0s; pass through the last strung copper 15/0 from the previous step and the 4th and 5th copper 11/0 beads in the ring. Continue adding 15/0s in this manner around the ring until you reach the 2nd to last copper 11/0 in the ring.

69. Add your last 2 copper 15/os to the 2nd to last copper 11/0 in the ring; pass through the next copper 11/0 and the 4MM bead. Weave through the ring or your piece and tie 2-3 half hitch knots to secure your thread and cut your thread.

Please feel free to contact me  if you have any questions by leaving a comment or clicking on the Contact Me link on the top of this page. Hope you enjoyed the tutorial!

• (12) Cobalt Blue Czech Fire Polished Glass beads (blue 4MM).
• (8) Cobalt Blue Czech Fire Polished Glass beads (blue 3MM).
• Approximately 40 size 15/0 seed beads. I used Miyuki Round Silver lined Crystal, #1 (silver 15/0).
• Beading thread (and wax) or clear Fire Line thread, 4 or 6 pound test.
• Size 12 or 13 beading needle. You will be passing through the size 15 beads a couple of times.
• (2) Earring components (ear hooks or clip-ons).
• (2) 1 ½ or longer inch eye pins, 22-24 gauge. These need to be able to fit through 4MM Fire Polish beads.
• (2) 1 or longer inch head pins, 22-24 gauge. Again, these need to fit through 4MM Fire Polish beads.
• Small round nose pliers. To prevent dings, use pliers with nylon ends.
• Knowledge of how to cut wire components and make eye loops will be helpful.
• Knowledge of half hitch knots will be necessary.

1. Pull about 2 feet of thread and thread your needle. String 2 blue 4MM beads and add them to your thread. Keep a 3-4 inch tail on the end as we will weave it back in the earrings. String 5 silver 15/0 seed beads, 1 blue 3MM bead and 5 silver 15/0 seed beads.

2. Bring your needle up through the BOTTOM of the 2 blue 4MM beads only and up through the top, forming a loop to the right side. Pull to tighten the loop.

3. String 5 silver 15/0s, 1 blue 3MM bead and 5 silver 15/0s. Bring your needle back up through the BOTTOM of the 2 blue 4MM beads only and out the top. Pull to tighten loop on the left side.

4.String beads in this order: 2 blue 4MM beads, 5 silver 15/0s, 1 blue 3MM bead and 3 silver 15/0s. Push this on to your thread on top of the previous loops you made below.

5. You will be sharing the top 2 silver 15/0s on each side of the bottom loops to help keep the loops from moving away from each other. Bring your needle through the top 2 silver 15/0s closest to the center on the bottom right loop and up through the top 2 blue 4MMs strung in Step 4, coming up through the bottom. Pull your thread to tighten the loop on the right side.

6. String 5 silver 15/0s, 1 blue 3 MM bead and 3 silver 15/0s. Pass your needle through the top 2 silver 15/0s closest to the center on the bottom left loop. Bring your needle up through the bottom of the top two blue 4MMs. Pull your thread to tighten the loop on the left side.

7. Pass back through ALL loops to strengthen. Photos below (left to right) show suggested way how to reinforce; you will need to do this for both sides. Try to avoid going through the blue 4MM multiple times as you will need to add an eye pin through these in the next steps. Secure all end thread by passing through the side loops and tying a couple of half hitch knots; cut your thread.

8. Take one of the eye pin findings and push it through the center of both sets of the center 4MM beads, but don’t push it through the 15/0s. This will the back side of the earring.

9. Trim your eye pin down to where you have a little under ½ inch left out above the top of the 4MM beads. (Photos left to right) You are now going to form an eye loop on the end by bending it at approximately a 90 degree angle with pliers then curl it back into a loop. Keep the loop open so we can add the earring hook later. Flip the earring to where the pin showing through is facing to the back. Line up the eye pins using pliers if necessary.

10. Next, add two 4 MM beads to a head pin and repeat Step 9 by trimming down the head pin to a little less than ½ inch above the 4MM beads and forming an eye loop. Don’t close this all the way.

11. (Left photo)Attach the two 4MM beads and head pin you just made in Step 10 onto the first piece through the closed eye loop. Close the loop on your head pin. (Right photo) Add your earring component on the other end and close your loop. Repeat Steps 1-11 for your second earring and you are finished!

Vintage-y Beaded Cameo Bracelet

Tubular Peyote Stitch Bezel, Netting, Peyote Stitch Toggle Clasp

I got the idea of working with cameos a couple of months ago when Heather of BluKat Design posted an awesome tutorial for her Easy To Make Vintage Collage Pendants. Her necklaces are absolutely gorgeous! I still haven’t stepped out of my beady-comfort zone yet to try making one but it is definitely on my to-do list. So anyway, I wanted to thank/blame Heather for the cameo inspiration and obsession for the last couple of months!

Cameos alone are just beautiful and I wanted to keep this bracelet as simple as possible to allow the cameos themselves be the center of attention, rather than any embellishment. The bezeled pieces would also make for beautiful earrings, rings and necklaces.

Here is what you will need to make this approximately 7 1/2″ bracelet. I have put in parenthesis how I will refer to the beads:

• 10 grams size 11/0 Miyuki, Metallic Dark Bronze (bronze 11/0)
• 5 grams size 15/0 Miyuki, Silver-lined Rainbow (gold 15)
• 5 resin flat back cameos 18 x 13MM (the link is to the eBay store where I bought mine from)

• (5) 8MM pearls
• (2)  6MM pearls
• Clasp or Make your own
• FireLine, size 12 needle, scissors

Creating An Open Back Peyote Bezel

I’m including some links of different methods on how to bead a bezel, including methods for rivolis and flat back cabochons.

Open Backed Peyote Bezel on About.com

Creating a Peyote Bezel on Around The Beading Table

Peyote Stitch Bezel on Bead&Button

The Secret for Perfect-Fit Peyote Stitch Bezel on Beading Daily

I am going into detail with the tubular peyote stitch bezel and I did make my bezel a little differently but use whatever you feel comfortable with. The way I did it may not work for bigger pieces. If you are familiar with tubular peyote and how to make a bezel, go ahead and create bezels for your cameos and skip to down to Connecting The Bezeled Cameo Pieces.

1. Rounds 1 and 2 *These directions will vary depending on the size cameo you use. Mine are 18 x 13MM.* Pull about 3 1/2 feet of FireLine and thread your needle. Add a stop bead if desired.  Leaving about 5-6 inch tail, pick up enough even number amount of  bronze 11/0 seed beads to go around the cameo. I used 34 for mine.  This number will vary depending on the size of your cameo and the type of beads you are using. Make a ring by bringing your needle back through all of the beads. Make sure this seed bead ring fits snugly around the cameo. This ring counts as your first 2 rounds

2.  Bring your needle 1 bead past where your tail thread is coming from to start your tubular peyote stitch.

3.  Round 3 Working in a peyote stitch, pick up 1 bronze 11/0, skip over the very next seed bead and bring your needle through the next bronze 11/0 in the ring. This should make the bead you just added sit on the bead you skipped over.

4. Pick up another 11/0, skip the very next 11/0 and bring your needle through the next 11/0 in the ring. Again, the bead you just added should be sitting on top of the bead you skipped over.

5. Pick up another 11/0, skip the very next bronze 11/0 in the ring and bring your needle through the next bronze 11/0.

6. Continue add beads in this manner, skipping every other bead in the ring until you reach the last bead in the ring. Add your final bead and bring your needle through the last bead of the ring and the through first bead you added in Step 3. This is stepping up to work your next round. Leave your thread here for now. We will pick back up from here to add rounds to the outside part of the ring in Step 11.

7.  We will now be adding size 15/0 seed beads to the inside of the ring. Thread your tail thread and bring your needle through the very next seed bead and towards the inside of the ring.

8. Working in a peyote stitch, pick up 1 gold 15/0 seed bead,  skip over the very next bead and bring your needle through the next bead which is sticking out in the inside of the ring. The gold 15/0 bead should be sitting on the bead you skipped over. Pull your thread.

9. Keeping your thread tight, pick up another gold 15/0  and pass through the next protruding bead on the inside of the ring. Basically, we are filling in the gaps between the bronze 11/0s with the  gold 15/0s in the center of the ring.

10.  Continue to add gold15/0 beads to the center of the ring. This is about what your piece should look like when this step is complete. Set your piece over your cameo to make sure enough of the front is showing. I went ahead and started to shape mine around the cameo with my fingers.

11.  Round 4 If it isn’t already, thread the first string you were working with in Steps 1-6. Pick up a bronze 11/0 and bring your needle through the next bead sticking out on the outside of the ring. We are now filling in between the 11/0′s on this step.

12. Continue to work in a peyote stitch to add beads to this round. Keep your thread tight. Your piece should start to curl upward as you work.

13. Finish the round by adding your last bead; step up through the first bead you added in this round to start the next round.

14. Round5 Place your cameo piece face-down into the beaded ring. This should be cupped just enough to hold it. You will need keep it in place with your fingers as you work. Pick up a bronze 11/0  and start working  your next peyote stitch round with the cameo in place.

15. Keep thread tight as you work as this round of beads will start to hold your cameo in place. Photo below shows this round about half way complete. The bottom is starting to curl inward. Complete this round and step up.

16.  Round 6 These last 2 rounds I have completed with the 15/0 seed beads. Add 15/0 seed beads to complete this peyote stitch round. Step up. Make sure to keep this round tight.

17. Round 7 Repeat Step 16.

18.  Your bezel is complete! Here is a front and back of what it should look like. Leave your thread out to use in the next part.

 Connecting The Bezeled Cameo Pieces

19. Using any one of your bezeled cameo pieces, weave your needle through to either side and closest to center as you can. If you used a different method to bezel your cameos, your center may look different than pictured. Just make sure to use the same place on all of the cameos so the pieces sit evenly next to each other. If yours doesn’t have a good center bead, try moving the bezel slightly around the cameo to get a good side center bead. My needle is coming out of the top of my center bead.

20. Get a second bezeled cameo piece. Pick up beads in this order: 1 gold 15/0, 1 bronze 11/0, an 8MM pearl, 1 bronze 11/0 and 1 gold 15/0. Bring your needle down through the top of center bead on the second cameo.  Make sure to match your side center beads.

21. Pick up 1 gold 15/0 and bring your needle back through the bronze 11/o,  pearl and the bronze 11/0 on the other side of the pearl.

22. Pick up another gold 15/0. Bring your needle through the bottom of the center bead on the 1st cameo. This should be the opposite side of where your thread started from.

23. Bring your needle back through all of the beads between the cameos to reinforce and strengthen. Bring your needle back through the center bead of the 1st cameo.

24. Bring your needle up through the nearest and a little above the center bead  on the cameo. We will be using the beads on the top left and right of the center bead for the next steps.

25. Pick up beads in this order: 2 gold 15/0s, 8 bronze 11/0s, and 2 more gold 15/0s. Match the same bead your thread is coming out from on the 1st cameo straight across on to the 2nd cameo. Bring your needle down through the right bead a little above and next to the centered bead on the 2nd cameo. The photo on the right is what it should look like.

26. Weave through to the left bead a little above and next to the centered bead on the second cameo.

27. We will be repeating Step 25 for below the pearl. Pick up beads in this order: 2 gold 15/0s, 8 bronze 11/0s and 2 gold 15/0s. Again, match the same bead straight across on to the 1st cameo.  Bring your needle through the top right bead next to the centered bead on the first cameo. I actually used 7 bronze for this bottom part and 8 for the top because mine were starting to buckle a little. Again, adjust if needed.

28. Pass back through all of the beads added in Step 25 and Step 27 to reinforce.

29. Repeat Steps 19-28 to connect the remainder of the cameo pieces. I used a total of 5 for this bracelet but you can add/subtract to adjust the length as well as when you add the clasp.

Making A Peyote Stitch Toggle and Ring Clasp

I will briefly go over how to make a beaded toggle and ring clasp. If you need step by step instructions, please see Making Your Own Jewelry Clasp, which includes basic flat even count peyote and tubular peyote stitch instructions (similar to above steps for the bezel). Skip to Adding The Clasp section if you are using a different clasp.

Beaded Peyote Ring

30. Pick up 28 beads and make a ring. Working in a tubular peyote stitch, work a total of 5 rounds, including the first strung beads as your first 2 rounds (left photo). Keep your piece flat as possible. After you add your last bead in the 5th round, pull your thread so the piece curls inward and add a round of gold 15/0 beads (center photo). Push the ends of the inside of the circle together, matching your ends, and zip your piece (right photo).

31. Weave through your piece to a center bead on the outside of your ring. Pick up 7-8 beads and make a loop. I used 6 but it was a little difficult getting the end of the bracelet to go through the loop Go back through the loop to reinforce. Tie in any loose ends by weaving through your piece and make 2-3 half hitch knots to secure and end your thread. Cut your thread.

Beaded Toggle Bar

32. Pick up 12 bronze 11/0 beads. Working in an even count peyote stitch, create a total of 8 rows, including the very first strung beads as your first 2 rows. Fold your piece in half long ways, matching the ends and zip the ends together in a zig zag motion.

33. Weave through the outside of the toggle bar to about center. Pick up 7-8 bronze 11/0 beads and come back through the center bead on the toggle bar to create a loop. Pass back through the loop you just created 2-3 times to strengthen this loop. Tie loose string back into your piece and create a couple of half hitch knots to secure and end your thread. Cut your thread.

Adding the Clasp

34.  You can adjust the beads here to change your length.Pick up beads in this order: 1 gold 15/0, 1 bronze 11/0, a 6MM pearl, 1 gold 15/0, a 6MM pearl, 1 bronze 11/0, 1 gold 15/0, 8 bronze 11/0s, 1 gold 15/0 and one end of you clasp.

35. Bring your needle back through the bronze 11/0 next to the 6MM pearl, pass through the 6MM pearl, the gold 15/0 and the bronze 11/0 on the other side of the second 6MM pearl.

36. Pick up 1 gold 15/0 and bring your needle through the other side of where you started from in the centered bead on the end cameo.

37. Go back through all of  the beads added in Steps 34 and 36 to reinforce. Repeat this 2-3 times to strengthen this end. Tie in loose thread with 2-3 half hitch knots into your piece and cut your thread. Repeat Adding The Clasp steps for the other end of the bracelet.

 Flat Even Count Peyote, Tubular Peyote Stitch

What you will need:

-Approximately 5 grams size 11/0 seed beads, your choice of beads.

-Approximately 1 gram size 15/0 seed beads, your choice of beads.

-Thread or FireLine, scissors and needle 

Flat Even Count Peyote Beaded Toggle Bar

1.  Rows 1 and 2 Pull 3- 3 1/2 feet of thread and thread your needle. Add a stop bead to the end. Pick up 18 size 11/0 beads or an even number of beads, depending on the size you want. This row counts as your first 2 rows.  For the very first main photo of this tutorial with the bronze clasp, I used 12 beads.  Make sure you have enough beads though, that the toggle will hold through the beaded ring part of the clasp.

2. Row 3 Pick up an 11/0 seed bead, skip over the first bead and bring your needle through the next bead in the row. The bead you just added should be sitting on top of the first bead you skipped over. Pull your thread.

3.  Pick up another 11/0 seed bead. Skip over the very next bead in the row and bring your needle through the next bead. This bead you just added should be sitting on top of the bead you skipped over in this step. Pull your thread.

4. Repeat Step 3 for the next bead in the row.

5.  Continue working in a peyote stitch to the end of the row. Push your stop bead snug against your work.

6. Row 4 Flip your piece. Pick up an 11/0 seed bead, skip over the first bead and bring your needle through the next bead, which should be sticking up. The bead you just added should be sitting on top of the bead you skipped over.

7. Pick up your next 11/0 bead, skip the very next bead and bring your needle through the next bead, which should be sticking up. Basically from here, you will be filling in the gaps between the beads. Add your next 11/0 bead to this row. Continue to add beads to finish this row. Continue to repeat Steps 6 and 7 for a total of 10 rows, including the first strung beads in Step 1 as the first 2 rows. Basically you will have added 8 rows to the first strung beads in Step 1.

**NOTE-You can use less rows, just make sure it’s enough rows to fold your piece in half long ways. Less beads will create a tighter toggle, more beads will create a floppier/squishier toggle. I made the gold one 8 rows high and 12 beads across. 

Zipping Your Piece

8. You will be zig zagging through the top and bottom of the long ends to zip the piece. Fold your piece in half long ways and match the ends. They should stagger. The ends should look like the gold piece in the above photo before you fold it. Bring your needle down through the first bead on the bottom end.

9. Bring your needle back up to the top layer and through the next bead, and down through the next bottom layer bead.

10.  Repeat Step 9 for the remainder of the length.

11. Weave back through your piece to approximately the center. Pick up enough beads to make a loop(8-10), and bring your needle back through the center bead in your toggle to create a loop. Pass back through this loop 2-3 times to strengthen. Tie in any loose thread and make 2 to 3 half hitch knots to secure and end your thread. Cut your thread.

Tubular Peyote Beaded Ring

 1.  Rounds 1 and 2 Start by threading a 3 to 3 and 1/2 foot piece of thread and string 28 to 34  size 11/0 seed beads, depending on the size of ring you need but keep it an even number of beads. I am using 34 in this tutorial. These first strung beads counts as your first 2 rows/rounds. Bring your needle through all the beads to form a loop.

2.  Next round/3^rd Round-Working in an even count peyote stitch and with your starting point one bead past your tail thread as a marker,pick up an 11/0 seed bead, skip the over very next 11/0 in the circle, and bring your needle through the next 11/0 (left photo). Pick up another 11/0, skip over the very next bead and bring your needle through the next bead (right photo). The beads you are adding should be sitting on top of the beads you are skipping over.

3.  Continue to work in a peyote stitch around the ring. To add the last bead in this round, pick up an 11/0 and bring your needle through the last bead in the circle and the FIRST bead you added in this 3rd round to step up for the next round (right photo).

4. 4th Round Working in a peyote stitch, pick up an 11/0, skip over the very next bead and bring your needle through the next bead, which should be sticking out. The bead you just added should be sitting over the bead you skipped over and sort of filled in the gap. Pick up another 11/0, skip over the very next bead and bring it though the next bead. Continue to repeat this around the ring. Do NOT pull your thread tight. After adding your very last bead on this round, step up to start your next round.

5. 5th Round Keeping your work flat as possible, continue working in a peyote stitch until you reach a total of 5 rows/rounds, including the first strung beads as the first 2 rounds. Basically at this point you should have added an additional 3 rounds to the initial bead ring in Step 1.  Keep your thread loose enough to where you’re your work is somewhat flat.

**NOTE – If you use a lesser amount of beads in Step 1 (28 beads), pull your thread on this round to where your piece curls inward, add size 15/0 seed beads for your 6th round, then zip your piece.  

6. Add the 11/0 seed beads for the 6^th round and after your final bead, pull your thread tightly so your piece curls inward on itself.  Add your 11/0 seed beads for the 7^th round, but now keep your thread snug as you work.

7. 8th round  Add size 15/0 beads for this round, keeping your thread snug.

Zipping Your Piece

8. You will be working in a zig zag motion to zip the piece. Weave through to the 1st size 15/0 bead you added in Step 7. Push the ring ends together and line up the ends. Bring your needle down  through the next bead on the bottom part of the ring.

9. Bring your needle back up through the top part of the ring through the next 15/0 bead. Continue in a zig zag motion around the inside of the ring to finish zipping the ring.

10. Weave your needle to the outside of the ring through one of the center beads. Pick up 10-12 size 11/0 beads(adjust this amount  if needed) and bring your needle back through the center bead to form a loop. Pull your thread. Go back through these beads 2-3 times to strengthen the ring. Tie in any loose ends and make a couple of half hitch knots to secure and end your thread. Cut your thread.

I thought I would try to make a “quick” pair of earrings to match the new Be Jeweled Bracelet pattern and about 10 cut-apart-and-start-over-designs later, this is what I came up with. I have put in parenthesis how I will refer to the beads in the tutorial.
Here’s what you will need for these 2″ long and 1″ wide earrings:

-12 of 3MM Czech Fire Polished Beads, Emerald (3MM)
-18 of 4MM bi-cone crystal or glass beads, Emerald(4MM bi-cone)
-16 of 4MM glass pearl beads or similar, Steel Grey or Dark Grey(4MM pearl)
-1/2 grams  size 11/0 Miyuki Transparent Grey Silver-lined #21(Grey 11/0)
-1/2 grams size 15/0 Miyuki Silver-Lined Crystal #1(Silver 15/0)
-2 earring components/findings. I used hooks.
-FireLine (or thread and wax), size 12 beading needle, scissors

For a FREE downloadable PDF of this tutorial please visit Craftsy.com (you will need to set up a free account).

1. Pull about 3 1/2 to 4 feet of thread and thread your needle. Leaving about a 6-7 inch tail for the bottom crystal, pick up beads in this order: 3MM fire polish, grey 11/0, 3MM fire polish, grey 11/0, 3MM fire polish, grey 11/0, 3MM fire polish, and grey 11/0 for a total of 8 beads. Pass your needle back through the beads to make a loop, then back through once more to reinforce the loop. This is not completely necessary but to help simplify things, position your thread to come out the of the first 3MM you strung, which will be the same bead your tail thread is coming out from. Position the beads to where you have a left, top, right and bottom 3MM fire polish(Photo below- Step 1a).

Step 1

Step 1a

2. Working clockwise, bring your needle through the next 3MM fire polish to the right, skipping the grey 11/0 in between the 3MM fire polish beads.

Step 2

3. Bring your needle through the next 3MM to the right, skipping the grey 11/0. Try to pick out the 11/0s with your needle as you work so they pucker out a little and keep your thread somewhat snug.

Step 3

4. Repeat Step 3 for the last two 3MM fire polish beads, picking out the 11/0s with your needle or fingers as you go and pull your thread so they stick out. Your thread should be positioned out of the 3MM you started with.

Step 4

5. Pick up beads in the order: silver 15/0, 4MM bi-cone, silver 15/0, 4MM pearl, silver 15/0, 4MM bi-cone and silver 15/0. Bring your needle through the next 3MM to the right, skipping the grey 11/0 in between the 3MM fire polish beads.

Step 5

6. Repeat Step 5 by picking up beads in this order: silver 15/0, 4MM bi-cone, silver 15/0, 4MM pearl, silver 15/0, 4MM bi-cone and silver 15/0. Bring your needle through the next 3MM to the right, skipping the grey 11/0.

Step 6

7. Continue to repeat Step 5 for the next two 3MM fire polish beads.

Step 7

Step 7

8. With your thread positioned back through same first 3MM bead as in Step 4, weave through the first corner by bringing your needle through the silver 15/0, 4MM bi-cone and silver 15/0 to the immediate left of where your thread is coming from.

Step 8

9. Pass through the 4MM pearl.

Step 9

10. Continue to weave through the corner by bringing your needle down through the silver 15/0 and 4MM bi-cone to the immediate right of the pearl you just came from, skipping the bottom silver 15/0. Your thread should now be positioned out of the bottom of the 4MM bi-cone.

Step 10

11. Pick up 1 grey 11/0 and bring your needle up through the bottom of the next right 4MM bi-cone and up through the silver 15/0 on top of the 4MM bi-cone. We will now weave through this corner to add the next grey 11/0.

Step 11

12. Pass through the 4MM pearl on this corner.

Step 12

13. Continue weaving through the corner by bringing your needle down through the silver 15/0 and 4MM bi-cone.

Step 13

14. Pick up 1 grey 11/0 and bring your needle up through the bottom of the next right 4MM bi-cone and up through the top silver 15/0. Now we will weave through this corner to add the next grey 11/0.

Step 14

15. Continue to repeat Steps 12-14 for the last 2 grey 11/0s between the 4MM bi-cones. Once complete, your thread should be positioned out of the same first 4MM bi-cone from Step 8(Photo below-Step 15a).

Step 15

Step 15a

16. Weave your needle through the 4MM pearl to the right.

Step 16

17. Continue to weave through this corner by bringing your needle down through the silver 15/0 and 4MM bi-cone.

Step 17

18. Pass through the grey 11/0 in between the 4MM bi-cones and up the right 4MM bi-cone, skipping the top silver 15/0.

Step 18

19. Pick up beads in this order: silver 15/0, 4MM pearl, grey 11/0, 4MM pearl and silver 15/0. Bring your needle down through the top left 4MM bi-cone.

Step 19

20. Bring your needle back through the bottom middle grey 11/0 and up the right 4MM bi-cone.

Step 20

21. Reinforce this loop by bringing your needle through all of the beads you just added and through the bi-cones and grey 11/0 below it. Weave back up  and position your thread through the top grey 11/0 of the beads you just added in Step 19.

Step 21

22. Pick up beads in this order: silver 15/0, 3MM fire polish, silver 15/0, 3MM fire polish, and silver 15/0. Bring your needle through the opposite side of the top middle grey 11/0 you added in Step 19. Reinforce this loop and position your needle out of the top middle silver 15/0 between the 3MM fire polish beads.

Step 22

23. Pick up 6-7 silver 15/0s and your earring finding. Bring your needle through the opposite side of the silver 15/0 you started from in the previous step to add this top final loop. Pass through all the beads you just added to reinforce.

Step 23

24. Reinforce and straighten the top section by bringing your needle down through the 3MM fire polish, silver 15/0s, 4MM pearl, and 4MM bi-cone on that side.

Step 24

25. Continue to reinforce and straighten these beads by coming up the left 4MM bi-cone on bottom, then up the silver 15/0, 4MM pearl, silver 15/0, and 3MM fire polish. Repeat twice if your needle/beads will allow.  If you did not leave a 6-7 inch tail in the beginning, use the thread you are working with now and weave down towards the bottom of the earring. If you did leave a 6-7 inch tail thread, weave through your piece making a couple of half hitch knots in the earring and cut your thread.

Step 25

26. I had to flip my piece to get to the tail. Thread the 6-7 inch tail you left at the beginning. Weave your needle through to the 4MM bi-cone, skipping the bottom silver 15/0.

Step 26

27. Pick up 1 silver 15/0, a 4MM pearl, 1 grey 11/0, a 4MM pearl, and a silver 15/0.  Bring your needle up through the 4MM bi-cone on the opposite side. Pull your thread.

Step 27

28. Reinforce all beads by bringing your needle through all of the beads you just added and the 4MM bi-cones and grey 11/0 above them.

Step 28

29. Position your thread to come out the very bottom grey 11/0 of the beads we just added in Step 27.

Step 29

30. Pick up 1 silver 15/0, a 4MM bi-cone and 1 grey 11/0. Skip over the grey 11/0 and bring your needle through the 4MM bi-cone.

Step 30

31. Pick up 1 silver 15/0 and pass through the middle grey 11/0 on the opposite side you started from in Step 29.

Step 31

32.  Pass through the silver 15/0s, 4MM bi-cone and tip grey 11/0 to reinforce and straighten. *Note- you may need to use your fingers to straighten the end first then reinforce beads.

Step 32

Repeat Steps 1-32 for the second earring.
Here are the two pieces together. The same beads were used in both pieces however the 3MMs in the bracelet appear darker because they are stacked on other beads.

Hope you enjoyed the tutorial! Please email or leave a comment if you need additional help with the instructions or have any questions

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Part 2-Double Row

Downloadable PDF now available! (You will need to have a free account on Craftsy.com)

I guess this would be considered Part 2 of my original Flat Spiral Stitch blog which covered the details of the basic single row. This is actually the very first stitch I learned when my sister in law and I took our first beading class at Heart Beads Jewelry in Salt Lake.
What you will need for a 7 inch double row bracelet:

-About 84 of 4 mm Czech Fire-Polished glass beads. 4 mm pearls or bi cone crystals work too, but please keep in mind the bracelet will look a little different.
-About 126 of 3mm Czech Fire-Polished glass beads and again, 3mm pearls or crystals are good also. Mix up the colors to give it your flare!

-5 grams of sized 15 seed beads
-Size 12 or 13 beading needle. You will be running through the size 15 seed beads a couple of times at the end to put on your clasp.
-About 5 yards of FireLine or whatever beading thread you would like to use. I prefer FireLine because it doesn’t fray as much and I just like the way it feels.
-Clasp ( I used a multi-strand barrel clasp on this tutorial)

Couple of notes about this project:
-Knowledge of half hitch knots will be helpful ( I have included links)
-There is a front and back to this, so make sure you keep the front side on the front.

If you need a smaller or bigger size, here’s how to calculate:

1 inch equals to 6 of the 4mm Fire polished beads. So for a 6 inch bracelet, you will need 6 inches times 6 beads equals 36. Double that amount for the 3 mm and you need 42 of the 3mm.

For an 8 inch bracelet-8 inches times 6 beads is 48 of the 4mm, double that is 96 for the 3mm.

Let’s get started!

I am briefly going over the Single Row. For more detailed instructions, please see PART 1.

1. Pick up two 4 mm fire polish and add to your FireLine. Make sure to keep it least 10- 12 inch from the end of your line to put the clasp on when you are finished.

2. Pick up 5 size 15/0 seed beads, a 3mm fire polish and 5 more size 15/0 seed beads.

3. Come up the BOTTOM of the two 4 mm fire polish, keeping the 10-12 inch tail on the bottom

4. Bring your needle up through them, forming a loop. Keep your string somewhat tight as the bead work will tend to loosen as you go. Pick up 5 seed beads, one 3 mm and 5 seed beads. Come back up through the bottom of the two 4 mm and up through the top making another loop for the other side.

5.  You should now have a loop on each side of the two center 4 mm, somewhat of a butterfly shape. Push the loops on either side to make them sit as flat as possible. ***Start repeat from here***** Next, add one 4 mm.

6. Pick up 5  size 15/0 seed beads, one 3mm, 5 more 15/0 seed beads and come through the bottom of the TOP two 4MM beads.

7. It should form a loop around the right side of the top two 4MM and should sit slightly stacked above the previous loop on the right side. Make sure to keep this side up as this will now start to have a back and front. Pick up 5 more  size 15/0 seed beads, a 3mm, and 5 size 15/0 seed beads and bring your needle up through the top two 4mm again.

8. Push the loop to the left side, so you have a loop on the left and right of the top 4MM fire polish beads. *Make sure you keep this side up through out the length of the bracelet. ******End of Repeat****

You will continue to repeat steps 8 through 12 until you reach the desired length of your bracelet. In summary, after the beginning two 4mm beads, you will do your loops and then add a 4MM, two loops on either side of the top two 4MM, add a 4MM, do two loops on either side and just keep going. *If you are adding a second/double row, keep all tail and end threads at this point!!* You will use these to add clasps. For single row, add clasp at this point.

Adding a second row (double row):

This is very similar to what we just covered. There are a couple of differences that I will point out when we get to them.

9.  Pull approximately 2 ½ yards of Fireline and thread your needle. Add two 4MM beads to your thread, keeping approximately a 10-12 inch tail for the clasp.

10.  Pick up 5 size 15/0 seed beads, a 3mm bead and 5 size 15/0 seed beads. Bring your needle up through the bottom of the two 4 mm beads and out the top, forming a loop on the right side of the two 4mm beads. Pull your thread to tighten loop.

11.   *HERE’S THE DIFFERENCE* Pick up ONLY 4 size 15/0 seed beads. We are now going to connect this with the single row we just made (left)by bringing your needle down through the first 3mm bead, including both the top and bottom seed bead touching the 3MM bead, so a total of 3 beads. Basically, we are going to share the top seed bead touching the 3MM, the 3MM and bottom seed bead with this second row.

Here’s what it should look like when you pull your thread.

12. Next, pick up ONLY 4  size 15/0 seed beads. Bring your needle up through the two 4MM beads on the right that you just started with for your second row.

13. Pull your thread. It should look similar to this.

14. *******Start of repeat***********Add a 4MM bead to your line. Pick up 5  size 15/0 seed beads, a 3MM bead and 5 size 15/0 seed beads.

15. Bring your needle up through the bottom of the top two 4MM beads and out the top, forming a loop on the right side of the top two 4MM beads.

16. Pull to tighten right side loop. Pick up ONLY 4  size 15/0 seed beads.

17. Bring your needle down through the top seed bead of the 3MM bead, the 3MM bead and the bottom seed bead that is ABOVE the one you already connected with. *This is where it can get tricky if you’re not careful. Make sure you always go through the next beads just above where the previous loop was made. Sometimes it looks like the next one is the one sitting right next to where to you are working, but it may be just a little lower than where you are looking. If you miss a 3MM bead, the bracelet will start to curve.

18. Pick up 4  size 15/0 seed beads. Bring your needle up through the bottom of the top two 4MM beads on the right row and out the top, forming a loop on the left side of the top two 4MM beads. Pull thread to tighten loop. ****END OF REPEAT****

19. From here to the remainder of the bracelet, you will repeat steps 14-18.

Recap–Add your next 4MM Fire Polish. Pick up 5  size 15/0 seed beads, a 3mm bead and 5 size 15/0 seed beads. Bring your needle up through the bottom of the top two 4 mm beads and out the top, forming a loop on the right side of the top two 4mm beads.

Pick up 4 size 15/o seed beads. Bring your needle down through the top seed bead of the 3mm bead, the 3MM bead and the bottom seed bead that is ABOVE the one you already connected with.

Pick up  size 15/0 seed beads. Bring your needle up through the bottom of the top two 4MM beads on the right row and out the top, forming a loop on the left side of the top two 4MM beads. Pull thread to tighten loop

Adding a clasp:

I am not going into great detail here but do want to touch some on how to add the clasp on this bracelet for those who are just getting started with beading. You will need to understand how to do a  half hitch knots  (instructions not included).  I usually use the multi-strand barrell sliding clasp but you can use whatever you are comfortable with.

Thread your needle with one of the threads coming out of the ends. You should have a total of 4 (two on each end) Pick up TEN  size 15/0 seed beads and thread one side of the clasp.

Bring your needle down through the top two 4 mm fire polish.

Bring your needle up through all beads in the right loop back up to the end of your bracelet where you added your clasp.

Go back through the seed beads and clasp to reinforce loop.

Bring your needle down through the two 4MM beads again below the clasp, and up through the left side loop this time. Go back through the clasp again, then down through the bracelet a few 4 MM beads. Do a series of half hitch knots to finish and cut. Repeat for the remainder 3 ends.

Click here for a free downloadable PDF of this tutorial on Craftsy.com(you will need a Craftsy account)

What you will need:

I have put in parenthesis how I will refer to the beads in the tutorial.

-Approximately 400 4MM glass or similar pearl beads. I used acrylic for mine. (4MM)

-10 grams size 11/0 Miyuki Round, S/L Crystal #1 (Silver 11/0)

-1 gram size 15/0 Miyuki Round, S/L Crystal #1 (Silver 15/0)

-Clasp

1.      Row 1-Pull as much thread as you are comfortable working with and thread your needle. Leaving a 10 inch tail to add the silver 15/0s on the end and clasp, start the tubular herringbone rope base by making a ladder stitch 4 beads across using silver 11/0s. The ladder stitch is briefly shown below, photos in order from left to right. Please click on the ladder stitch link for more detailed instructions.

2.     Connect the two ends together to form a circle by making a ladder stitch between the two end beads.

3.    Row 2-Working in a herringbone stitch,  pick up two silver 11/0 seed beads and bring your needle down through the base bead to the right of where your thread is coming from, then back up through the base bead to the right of where your thread is.

 4.      Pick up and add the next two silver 11/0s by bringing your needle down through the bead to the right and coming back up through bottom of the next stack of beads to the right. This is stepping up to start the third row.

5.     Row 3 and 4-Pick up the next two silver 11/0s and bring your needle through only the top  silver 11/0 bead to the right of where your needle is coming from, then back up through the bottom  of the top silver 11/0 to the right.  Repeat this for the next side. Step up through the bottom of the top two beads of the next stack to the right and repeat this step for the 4^th row.

6.    Row 5- Pick up a 4MM pearl, a silver 11/0 and 4MM pearl. Continue in a herringbone stitch to add this to the stacks of silver 11/0s. Repeat for the other side. Step up through the top two beads in the stack to the right (silver 11/0 and 4MM pearl).

7.  Row 6- Repeat Step 6 except as you come through the bottom of the 4MM pearls to add additional beads, pick up a silver 11/0 and bring your needle up through the bottom of the 4MM pearls. This hides the string a little better and gives the rope a little more sparkle. Continue to repeat this step by adding beads until you reach about 1 inch less your desired length. Example: 18” rope, stop at 17”.

 8.    To end the rope, we will be doing the opposite of how we started to taper down to the end. Start to taper by adding the 2 silver 11/0s to each stack on top and adding the final silver 11/0s underneath the 4MM  pearls you are coming up through. These are the last ones you will add.

9.    For the next row, add the 2 silver 11/0′s to each stack but DO NOT add the silver 11/0′s underneath. Step up to complete the last 2 rows with silver 11/0′s.

10.     After you complete 4 rows of the silver 11/0′s, switch to silver 15/0′s to complete the last 4 rows. You should have a total of 8 rows of seed beads on the end.

11.    Pick up 3 silver 15/0′s, one clasp end and 3 more silver 15/0′s and bring your needle down through the stack that is diagonal from where your thread is coming from.

13.    Bring your needle up through the stack of 4 silver 15/0s to the right.

14.    Bring your needle up through the loop of silver 15/0′s going through the clasp. This should straighten this loop over the 2 stacks.

15.    Come through the clasp and then down the stack to the right to straighten this side.  To reinforce, come back up the stack to the right, pass back through the clasp and back down the right stack of silver 15/0s AND the silver 11/0s below it. Weave your needle down through your piece, tying 3-4 half-hitch knots to secure and cut your thread.

16.   For the other end, thread the tail and add 4 rows of silver 15/0s. Repeat steps 11-15 to add the clasp and end your thread.

I experimented with jump rings again last weekend and was able to make these extremely simple and cute earrings for a friend of mine in less than a half hour. This is a quick and easy project for you to do (depending on what supplies you have and what your skill level is).

What you will need:

-16 small to medium jump rings, depending on the size of beads you choose. I used large jump rings for photo purposes. You can find these at Wal-Mart in the craft section with the beads, or places like Jo-Ann’s or Michael’s. Use more or less jump rings depending on the length you want the earrings.

-About 20 top drilled (hole at the top) acrylic flat beads. Teardrop or pear shaped can be used as long as they are fairly thin, top hole and light weight. These particular beads are fairly light weight so you put on a bunch without weighing down the earring. Here’s a couple of great examples of top drilled acrylic beads that can be used:

http://store.goodybeads.com/store/beads-and-supplies/Acrylic-Beads.html

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280566933182

-2 earring components (findings). I used the hooks because I had these on hand. You can find these, again at Wal-Mart, Hobby Lobby, Jo-Ann’s, Michael’s or a local jewelry supply store.

-pliers to open jump rings.

1. Open a jump ring. Make sure you open up and down, not pull them apart from side to side as that will mis-shape the ring.

2. Add two beads the opened jump ring and close the ring.

3. Take the next opened jump ring, add it to the previous jump ring, add a bead to each side, then close the jump ring.

4. Repeat step 3 by taking the next opened ring, add it to the last ring you just added on, then add a bead to each side and close your ring.

5. Continue to repeat step 3 for a total of 7 jump rings or until 1 less your desired length. If you see some bare spots, just reopen the jump ring above the bare spot and either add another bead or adjust the beads on that ring to be opposite sides of each other so they fill in.
6. Repeat step 3 for the 8th (last ) jump ring but add your earring component after you add the beads and close the jump ring.

Repeat steps 1-6  for the next earring.

Need more help to make these or have a suggestion for a tutorial you want to see? Email me at yvonne@my-amari.com or leave a comment. Thanks!